One of the three ways

Vast India

Two deserts — one of golden sand, one of cold rock at fifteen thousand feet.

Most people do not come to India for emptiness. India has one and a quarter billion people and a reputation for noise, and the traveller who arrives expecting crowds is not wrong.

And then there is the other India — the Thar, where a sandstone fort rises out of nothing and three thousand people still live inside its walls; and Spiti, a cold desert between the Himalaya and Tibet where a village of a hundred souls sits at fifteen thousand feet under a sky dark enough for the Milky Way to cast a shadow.

Śūnya is the Sanskrit word for zero, and it does not mean nothing. It means emptiness and completeness held in the same word. These two deserts are the closest thing we know to standing inside it.

The journeys

Two ways to travel it.