One of the three ways

Royal India

Palaces built on water, forts built on ridgelines, and a courtly imagination that never quite ended.

For six centuries the desert kingdoms of Rajasthan competed at something unusual: not conquest, but beauty. The result is a state where the architecture is startling even to people who have seen Europe’s great houses — palaces that appear to float on lakes, an observatory built of stone instruments the size of buildings, a city laid out on a grid in 1727 and painted pink for a visiting prince.

The families who built these places are, in several cases, still there. That is the difference between Rajasthan and a museum. Doors open here for people who arrive properly introduced, and the difference between seeing a palace and dining in one is entirely a matter of who is asking.

We keep the days unhurried and the rooms extraordinary.

The journeys

Two ways to travel it.